A few months ago, before I even considered visiting Naples, I read somewhere that if Naples wan’t the least European city in Europe, at least it was the least Italian in Italy. I can totally understand now where that comment was coming from.
Naples is, without a doubt, a place like no other. Dirty, noisy, decadent and not very safe, the “Capital of the South” could be easily named “the most unpleasant city in Italy” (I’m sorry, Milan).
Naples is really a city to either love or hate, no in-betweens.
I was barely in Naples for a little over 24 hours, but I must say I really enjoyed the experience.
Lavazza and Dolce&Gabbana ads put in our minds an over-idealized Italy where glamour, style and dolce vita (spiced with high degrees of eroticism) are the norm.
Naples is the ying to the yang of all “nice” things we think when we imagine Italy and at the same time it’s the exaggeration to the nth degree of all that’s negative about it.
After leaving the train station, you get the feeling that Naples is somewhat of an illegitimate son that Rome and New Delhi had together.
While the city looks essentially Italian, the added noise, dirt and graffiti make it closer to a Moresque bazaar than to the calm serenity of other cities in the country such as Venice or Rome.
Napoli, that once stood proud as the capital of one of the most important kingdoms in the Italic Peninsula, is actually full of fine palaces and churches.
Its Old Town is a tangled web of tiny streets and alleys, from most of its balconies you can see countless pieces of clothing, hanging impassive to the total madness a few meters below. On the ground, the screaming and shouting is only drowned by the roar of the many Vespas trying go through at 60mph and ridden by one-to-three people with no helmet.
Rumor has it that the proximity of Mount Vesuvius molded the mind of Neapolitans in a way different to the rest of the country. The looming presence of an active volcano that at any given time could wipe them out of the face of Earth (does the name Pompeii ring a bell?) gave them a way of life based on the carpe diem philosophy.
In general, Neapolitans are not very fond of rules, never hurry and give great importance to personal interaction and conversation. Loud conversation.
For all tourists used to travel to picture-perfect cities the likes of Paris or Venice, Naples is one big nightmare. However, it is because of its authenticity and its personality that Napoli is highly regarded by travelers who prefer to make their journey with the heart and not so much the eyes. Naples is not a place that tries to put on make up or nice clothes to impress visitors, it is a city with a heartbeat, that moves to its frantic (but paused) rhythm no matter who’s watching.
Just a tip: mind your wallet.
Read about the best areas to stay in Naples.